The Art of Airbrushing Makeup Part Two: What Product Line Do I Use?
Continued
By Bradley M. Look
Let's now turn our attention back to which airbrush makeup lines are currently available. Products are listed by their brand name, as well as the name of the manufacturer. Additionally, you'll find colors, size amounts, and other pertinent information listed. For example what is the chemical makeup of a product? That is to say, is it considered water or alcohol based? Or is it something else? What is the proper cleaner to run through your airbrush when you're finished spraying? That's always an important one to know so as not to clog up your gun. I've also listed which products are good for doing a beauty makeup and which are better suited for fantasy or prosthetic work.
All of the brands listed are pre-reduced, so they're ready-to-use straight from the bottle. To atomize, spray between 3 and 6 PSI. Remember that the process of airbrushing makeup should be a pleasant one. Using pressure higher than necessary is not only uncomfortable for your model, but also displaces more product in the air, which is unhealthy.
Now while every attempt has been made to make this a complete list, I am sure that one or two might have been inadvertently left off. New makeup products pop up everyday. You'll find the listing pretty extensive, so I would highly recommend that you print out a hard copy as reference. This will help you with any web browsing and ordering you might want to do in the future.
AIRBRUSH BODYART
This Australia based company has an extensive line of airbrush makeup products. Their line is broken down into three areas of interest. First, there is Global Colours designed for both face and body applications. These are water based and use F.D.A. approved cosmetic grade ingredients. It is recommended that the product first be mixed with some distilled water to reduce it down to a sprayable consistency. To clean out the gun afterwards, use either distilled water or the Dinair cleaner. Two sizes are available, 1.7 fl. oz and 6.8 fl. oz.
Next are the Airbrush Bodyart Temporary Tattoo inks. The inks were developed using only F.D.A.-approved pigments and are alcohol based. Four sizes are available: 2 oz., 4 oz., 8 oz., and 16 oz. The colors in this line are broken down into two categories: basic and fluorescent. As this product is alcohol based, I would recommend using 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean any residual product out of your airbrush system.
And their final line is Golden Tropic, airbrush-tanning solution. Golden Tropic is a sunless tanning system that is applied using the atomizing of the airbrush to disperse the product evenly over the body. Golden Tropic is packaged in 6.76 oz bottles and 34 oz bottles. Commonly, 99% isopropyl alcohol is used to clean out the airbrush when you're finished.
AIRMAKEUP COSMETICS
The water-based product is available in 1 oz. and 4 oz. size squeeze bottles. AirrMakeup has three different color families: Glamour Colors, Fantasy Colors, and Opalescent Colors.
AIR CRAFT
Air Craft is completely water based and was created specifically to be sprayed through an airbrush to give the skin a beautiful finish. Other types of regular foundations can be used on top of the airbases. As the product is water based, distilled water can be used to clean residual amounts out of the airbrush. Available in 1 fl. oz bottles.
AIR STREAM MAKE-UP
Air Stream Make-Up, manufactured by Kryolan Corporation, is the most recent addition to their already extensive line of cream, cake, and rubber mask grease foundations used around the world. Their product uses a water-based formula. Kryolan is working on an airbrush cleaner which should be forthcoming soon. Packaging of the product is in 2.6 fl. Oz. bottles.
BODYAIR
This product is available in 1 oz., 2 oz., 4 oz., and 8 oz. Aqua Flow Technology manufactures Bodyair. The colors are water-based and can be reduced with distilled water. It is recommended that you apply thin coatings to build up the density.
DCK AIRBRUSH COSMETICS
This water-based product is packaged in 1.2 oz bottles. There are four foundation colors and two blushes available. Use distilled water or Dinair Airbrush Cleaner when finished.
DINAIR
Product is only available in 1 oz. size. Colors are broken down into four different categories: Glamour (with matte finish), Fantasy* (with matte finish), Opalescent* (with shimmer), and Fluorescent- Day Glow.*
The Glamour line is deionized water based. Dinair makes an excellent Airbrush Cleaner, which is packaged in 8 fl. oz and 1 gal. bottles.
*The Fantasy, Opalescent, and Fluorescent lines are SDA-40/deionized water based. Use Dinair Airbrush Cleaner to evacuate airbrush when you're finished.
New to the Dinair Line is AIRTAN, a sunless tanning system that uses a DHA formulation. Available in 1 gal bottles.
FANTASY FACES
Two of the main ingredients in the Fantasy Faces airbrush makeup are SD Alcohol 40 and water. So be careful when spraying around the face. To remove this product from your airbrush, 99% isopropyl alcohol can be used as a cleaner. Available in 1 fl. oz and 16 fl. oz sizes.
Also available through Fantasy Faces is NATURAL ELEGANCE. These flesh tone airbrush makeups can be mixed with any of the other Fantasy Faces colors. Natural Elegance is available only in 1oz size. Additionally, the makeup manufacturer, Mehron, also has matching foundations to the Natural Elegance airbrush makeup, which is called Celebre' Professional Cream Make-up, that are 6 oz each. Having a matching cream foundation makes touching-up on set a lot easier!
Fantasy Faces Airbrush Make-up Thinner
Although Fantasy Faces Make-up is water-based, you should never attempt to thin it down with water or any other thinner as it will coagulate and become impossible to use. You should only thin with their thinner. Use only a few drops to start, and then shake the bottle well. You can keep adding until you reach the desired consistency.
FASHION AIR FOUNDATION
DeBonnAire Company manufactures this line of airbrush cosmetics. There are three different lines of airbrush products they sell which are the Fashion Aire Foundation (alcohol based), the Air Makeup Colors (water based), and their Airbrush Tanning Systems (acetone based). The airbrush makeups are packaged in 1 fl. oz bottles, whereas the tanning products are bottled in 32 fl. oz, 64 fl. oz, and 1 gallon.
GRAFTOBIAN
This airbrush makeup is available in a 2.25 oz size. Their product is an SD Alcohol 40 (ethyl alcohol denatured with brucine, an alkaloid, and commonly used in cosmetics as an astringent, solvent, and/or viscosity decreasing agent) and water based. As the product does contain alcohol, great care must be taken when spraying it on the face. Graftobian also has an airbrush cleaner and flushing fluid in a 2 and 8 oz. size, as well as in gallon bottles. This product line can be used for both beauty and fantasy makeups.
JAN TANA
Originally these sunless tanning products were geared towards the professional body builder who needed the depth of skin coloring to define his/her muscles. However after an impromptu meeting with color expert Clayton Stang and myself, owner Jan Tana, discovered that she was missing out on the airbrush market that had become so big in Europe. Jan Tana now has a new airbrush formula that is available in 7 fl. oz., 32 fl. oz., and 128 fl. oz. Like other sunless tanners, the formula is based on DHA. Use 99% isopropyl alcohol to flush out the airbrush when finished spraying.
MAC AIRBRUSH PAINT
While the name of the product would imply that this product is paint, MAC only uses cosmetic ingredients to make it. This airbrush cosmetic is the newest to the MAC Pro line, and it is a densely pigmented, water-based formula that is long wearing, as well as transfer-resistant. Currently, there are twelve colors available, which include primary as well as secondary colors. MAC Paint is sold in 1.7 fl. oz bottles. While MAC has no cleaner, it is recommended that you use 99% isopropyl alcohol to flush out your airbrush. MAC is also currently working on an airbrush beauty makeup foundation formula, which, hopefully, will be available in the near future.
As the line is only available through MAC Pro locations, I've listed some of them below, but suggest that you might also consult their web site as to stores in your area.
MANCINI AIRBRUSH MAKEUP
Airbrush makeup is available in 2 fl. oz and 16 fl. oz. Mancini additionally offers an airbrush cleaner in two sizes as well, 4 fl. oz and 16 fl. oz.
MICHAEL DAVY AIRBRUSH MAKEUP
Of all the lines of airbrush makeup currently available, perhaps none is as extensive as the one created by makeup artist/product developer, Michael Davy.
As a working makeup artist, Michael has successfully created a wide spectrum of products that is only rivaled by Kryolan's. Click on his web site and see what I mean. His airbrush line is broken down into two different formulations. First, there is his Fashion Aire Applied Cosmetics. This line was developed as a high fashion grade foundation and dries with a matte finish. And unlike other dried foundations, the Fashion Aire is bendable with a sponge or powder puff after its application. The Fashion Aire is ideal for runway, salon, and nightclub use. Now if you find yourself needing extra coverage, then use Fashion Aire II. This is a heavier version with all the same qualities as the original, but with a higher level of pigmentation.
Second, there is Airbrush Grade Prosthetic Cosmetic. This line was developed as a smudge proof; sweat proof, and waterproof alternative to the widely used PAX for coloring of appliances. The Airbrush Grade Prosthetic Cosmetic contains an acrylic copolymer, which allows the product to be resistant to moisture and light abrasion, yet it can be easily removed with standard makeup removers. This is safe for use not only on the skin, but also on latex, gelatin, and silicone appliances. And if you need more opacity, then use Airbrush Grade Prosthetic Cosmetic II (or A.G.P.C. 2 for short), as it has increased pigmentation content.
Michael's colors are broken down into three main groups: Foundation/Base tones, Lining Colors, and Day Glow Colors. Each color is assigned a numerical designation; much in the same way that Kryolan uses article numbers to denote the color code in their product line.
Both formulas of the Fashion Aire and Airbrush Grade Prosthetic Cosmetic are available in 1 fl. oz, 2 fl. oz, 4 fl. oz, 16 fl. oz, and 32 fl. oz. Use 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean out the airbrush when you're finished spraying.
Finally, another product, which Michael also offers of extreme interest to the makeup artist, is Silicolor. Silicolor is a unique cosmetic grade acrylic copolymer, which can be added to either formulation of airbrush makeup to make them super waterproof. You can also mix equal amounts of isopropyl alcohol and Silicolor to create an airbrush medium.
REEL BODY ART COLORS
Reel Body Art products are alcohol based, so use alcohol to clean out your airbrush. This product is available in 1/2 oz., 1 oz., and 2 oz. Larger sizes are available as a special order.
SAFARI AIRBRUSH MAKEUP
Safari is a company that offers not only airbrush makeups, but also a complete line of airbrush nail paints as well as an extensive line of airbrush equipment. Their airbrush makeup comes in thirteen colors and is available in 1 oz size bottles. All of the colors in the line are alcohol based.
Safari also has their own sunless tanning system called Sunny Buns. It's a DHA formulation that comes in 1 gal. bottles. Use 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean the airbrush when finished spraying.
SKIN ILLUSTRATOR COLORS
This product is available in 2 oz., 4 oz., 8 oz., and 32 oz. sizes.
Skin Illustrator is a tough alcohol-based makeup that is water- and abrasion-resistant. Illustrator's color range encompasses premixed light to dark skin tones, which can be altered with the addition of either warming or cooling adjusters. There are also many excellent character colors within the line as well. Skin Illustrator may be used to conceal a real tattoo or a skin discoloration, create a faux tattoo, or color an appliance made of foam latex, gelatin, plastic, or even silicone.
SKIN ILLUSTRATOR Alchemy (metallic colors)
As the product line is alcohol based, then 99% isopropyl alcohol can be used as a solvent to clean out your airbrush. Premiere Products also manufactures another product of equal interest for the airbrush makeup artist. It's called Green Marble Sealer. It produces a very tenacious film on the skin, protecting delicate airbrush detail. However, it must be cleaned out immediately when you're through spraying or it will become extremely difficult to clean out later.
STACOLORS
The twenty-two colors are broken down into ten flesh tones while the remaining ones in the line are primary colors. All the Staycolors are alcohol based.
Matthew recommends that for optimum adhesion you should clean the skin with either 70% or 90% Isopropyl alcohol first. Staycolors must be shaken well before use to maintain color consistency. Avoid application close to the eyes. Spray thin, light coats of Stacolor to build up density of color. All Stacolors may be thinned down using 99% isopropyl alcohol and are available in 2 oz squeeze bottles.
SU-DO BODY ART
This company, based out of the United Kingdom, has five different categories of airbrush products: Body Art, Hair Art, Airbrush Tanning, and Airbrush Makeup.
Su-Do Body Art - This product is available in 15ml (0.5 oz) and 30ml (1 oz). Please note that the Pearl Silver and Pearl Gold are not as durable as other Su-do colors due to the coarseness of the pigment.
Su-Do Hair Art - The Hair Art is packaged in 60ml (2 oz) bottles. The ultimate formulation of Su-Do Hair Art colors is designed for easy airbrushing and great color finishes. The color has a built-in conditioner to protect the hair and washes out easily from natural and treated hair, leaving no color residue.
Su-Do Tropical Airbrush Tanning - The DHA-based liquid is airbrushed over all or selected parts of the body, and the full depth of the tan develops over 5 hours and lasts up to 10 days. Re-fresher touch-ups can be applied at any time.
Su-Do Airbrush Makeup - The application of makeup using Su-Do's Airbrush makeup presents professional makeup artists with the opportunity to dramatically reduce usual application time. The airbrush also allows ultra-fine foundation application and tonal blending. It is also ideal for covering skin blemishes.
TEMPTU
Temptu's airbrush product line is broken down into four separate formula types: Dura, Aqua, Stage 2, and their new S-B (or silicone based).*
Dura Liquid Makeup is a long-wearing product designed for the makeup artist who requires a durable color that is waterproof and sweat proof over an extended period of time. This formula is alcohol based, so use 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean out your airbrush when finished. Available in 1 fl. oz., 2 fl. oz., and 4 fl. oz. bottles.
Aqua Liquid Makeup is specifically formulated for beauty applications. This product gives the sheerest application with complete coverage. Also available is Aqua Converter that can be added to any of the Aqua liquid makeups to thin down further. Use distilled water to clean out the airbrush. Bottled in 1 fl. oz, 2 fl. oz, and 4 fl. oz.
Stage 2 Liquid Makeup is a water-based makeup that is sweat proof and smudge proof, but that can easily be removed with soap and water. Great to use over facial appliances and for intense body painting effects. Use distilled water to clean airbrush when through. Packaged in 1 fl. oz bottles. Intermixable to obtain other color shades.
S/B Airbrush Makeup is Temptu's new silicone based formula that can achieve a flawless, even looking complexion. It is a longwearing foundation that can be applied not only with the airbrush, but also with brushes and sponges. Neutralizers and blushes will be added to the line very soon. Use S/B All Purpose Cleaner to remove residual product from airbrush. Makeup is available in 1 fl. oz bottles, while the cleaner is in 4 fl. oz and 16 fl. oz sizes.
TRENDY TRIBALS
This Oklahoma City-based company sells a water-based airbrush makeup that is available in three sizes: 1 oz, 2 oz, and 4 oz.
MISCELLANEOUS PRODUCT LINES THAT HAVE BEEN USED IN AN AIRBRUSH: Ben Nye Magicolor Liquid Paint (www.bennye.com, thinned down using either their Liquidset (water based) or Final Seal (alcohol based); Revlon Colorstay Makeup (thinned down using 244 silicone fluid), Visiora Body Makeup (thinned down with distilled water or Cinema Secrets Moisture Spray, which is water-based); Joe Blasco Body Makeup (www.joeblasco.com, thinned down with distilled water or Cinema Secrets Moisture Spray, which is water-based. Note: This product was used for the feature, Flintstones Viva Rock Vegas); Thom Surprenant Pax Paints (though commonly applied using sponges, this product line is increasingly being diluted with distilled water and sprayed through an airbrush…available through beauty suppliers only); and Real Cosmetics Liquid Foundations (www.realcosmetics.com, their water-based foundations have been used straight from the bottle).
RESOURCES: BEAUTY SUPPLIERS
ON-LINE
EAST COAST
Alcone LIC (mail order warehouse)
5-45 49th Avenue
Long Island City, NY 11101
Toll free: 800-466-7446
Tel. 718-361-8373 • Fax 718-729-8296
Alcone NYC (retail store)
235 West 19th Street
New York, NY 10011
Tel. 212-633-0551
www.alconeco.com
Makeup Mania
154 Orchard Street
New York, NY 10002
Toll free: 800-711-7182
Tel. 212-533-5900 • Fax 212-533-5019
www.makeupmania.com
WEST COAST
Beauty Collection
18517 Ventura Blvd.
Tarzana, CA 91356
Tel. 866-881-8393 • Fax 818-881-8070
Cinema Secrets
4400 Riverside Drive
Burbank, CA 91505
Tel. 818-846-0579 • Fax 818-846-0431
www.cinemascrets.com
Frend's Beauty Supply
5270 Laurel Canyon Blvd.
North Hollywood, CA 91607
Tel. 818-769-3834 or 213-877-4828 • Fax 818-846-0431
www.Frendsbeautysupply.com
Image Exclusives
8020 Melrose Avenue
West Hollywood, CA 90046
Tel. 323-651-4678 • Fax 323-651-1710
Makeup Mania
831 N. Lake Street
Burbank, CA 91502
Toll free: 800-711-7182
www.makeupmania.com
Namie's Beauty Center
12640 Riverside Drive
North Hollywood, CA 91607
Tel. 818-655-9922 • Fax 818-655-9999
www.naimies.com
Studio Works, Inc.
814 N. Hollywood Way
Burbank, CA 91505
Tel. 818-848-1838 • Fax 818-848-1915
www.studioworks@sbcglobal.net
SUPPLIERS IN EUROPE
Charles H. Fox, Ltd.
22, Tavistock Street
Covent Garden, London WC2E 7PY
Tel. 0870-2000-369 • Fax 0870-2001-369
www.charlesfox.co.uk
Make-Up Artist Provisions, Ltd.
6 Goldhawk Mews.
Shepherds Bush, London W12 8PA
Tel. 4420-8740-0808
Screen Face
48 Monmouth Street
Covent Garden, London WC2 9EP
Tel. 020-7836-3955 • Fax 020-7836-3944
www.screenface.com
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