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WHICH AIRBRUSH AND COMPRESSOR SHOULD I USE FOR MY TYPE OF WORK?

 

"Airbrush Quick Tips Archives"


6/11

Stippling Technique:  Large Dot, Small Dot—Stippling is a term that refers to the spraying of visible dots that are utilized to create specific effects.  Both external and internal mix airbrushes can spray a stipple.  The external mix brush does it almost innately because of the method in which it sprays the paint, while the internal mix brush produces a stipple when the air pressure is lowered to 1 or 2 pounds pressure (psi) and/or when the air cap is removed.  Both work at a low air pressure for stippling.  This incomplete atomization produces unusually large specks of paint that can be controlled with the airbrush.  The spray is used to develop various textures, e.g., the rough surface of a metal casting, rust, and fabric as well as background areas or color field painting, etc.  As opposed to the soft, delicate spray usually achieved with the airbrush, artists find the ability to stipple the spray extremely handy.

Airbrush Holders – It’s quite obvious that you can’t just set the airbrush down on the work table when it contains paint or the fluid will flow onto the work surface.  It’s necessary to have an airbrush holder in which to support the airbrush upright.  Different types of holders are available ranging from the simple, flat metal holders that come with some airbrushes to the more elaborate double-holders that have regulators and moisture traps attached.  Most types consist of two hooks between which the airbrush rests.

Myriad Airbrush Applications – At a recent basic airbrush workshop program held in Milwaukee (see www.arttalk.com/workshop/workshop.htm for the next dates), a survey was taken to see in what applications the students intended to apply their new airbrush skills.  The diversity of the students was amazing, and following are some of the many responses:  illustration, fine art acrylic on canvas, fabric/T-shirt painting, wall murals, sign painting, working on vinyl, makeup for hi-definition TV, kustom auto/motorcycle painting, wood carvings, furniture decoration, plastic models, miniature figures, model railroads/dioramas, doll restoration, glazing ceramics, china restoration, wall stenciling, photographic retouching, painting on fur/feathers, face masks, fingernails and preliminary renderings of designs for tattoo clients. 

The airbrush is constantly being adapted to new and unique applications.  Key to many of these is the ability to apply paint without touching the surface with a brush.


4/11

Spray Straight – When spraying with the airbrush, point it directly at the work surface; and move your entire arm when making a spray pass.  Beginning artists are sometimes inclined to move only the wrist when directing spray, and this prevents them from getting even coverage with the paint.  Another problem can arise when spraying at an angle if the spray lifts the edge of the stencil/frisket material.  Paint will drift underneath the stencil and a hard edge will not be achieved.

 MAC Valves – The new Hi-Line Airbrushes from Iwata look very similar to the older HP Series except for one unique feature:  There’s a knob situated at the bottom front of the airbrush just below the color cup. This is the micro air control or MAC valve.

A breakthrough in technology from IWATA, this valve allows infinite control of the air flow at the head assembly of the airbrush.  This is quite different from regulating the air pressure at the compressor.  For one thing, it allows you to adjust the airbrush to spray a coarse stippling effect by cutting down the air flow.  Conversely, by opening the air flow you will get full atomization without ever having to touch the regulator.  To achieve an extremely fine line for detail work, adjust the air valve to give maximum control of the paint output.  Also, by fully opening the MAC valve, the airbrush can be quickly cleaned during color changes.  To paint a broad background, fully open the valve to spray a large amount of paint. 

Some airbrushers find it handy to hold onto the MAC while painting, giving added stability and being able to instantly twist it open or closed at will.  See your retailer and visit www.iwata-medea.com.

Your Airbrush Trigger Fell Out!--All airbrushers will experience having the trigger fall from the airbrush when they remove the needle for cleaning.  The needle runs through the trigger and holds it in place.  When the trigger falls out, the spring-loaded return lever that pushes the trigger back into a shut-off position will sometimes fall forward and drop into the housing of the airbrush.  You must pull back on the needle holder, relieving the spring pressure against the return lever, in order to replace the trigger, which seats itself on the air plunger.  You’ll know that it’s in place when you can press down on the trigger and air comes out.  Once it’s back in place, gently slide in the clean needle and hold it in place by tightening the needle chuck screw.  Refer to the instructional booklet that comes with your airbrush, usually accompanied with a cutaway rendering of the internal parts.


02/11

 

Silence is Golden! – When it comes to compressors for airbrushing, the quieter they are, the more appreciated they are by the artist.  An artist does not want to be distracted by a noisy compressor when concentrating on artwork.  Therefore, airbrush compressor manufacturers strive to provide extremely quiet equipment, a major selling point that is universal in the world of airbrush.  Whether a piston operated or diaphragm compressor, noise level is controlled in a few different ways, i.e., it may run only on demand or it may be oil immersed, thus muffling the sound.  For those who own a loud compressor, the noise level can be diminished by placing it far from the work station. 

 

Same Airbrush, Different Tips – Both single and dual action internal and external mix airbrushes are adaptable to a variety of tip sizes (head assemblies).  The size of the tip determines the fineness and the wideness of the achievable spray.  There are usually three tip sizes available:  fine, medium, and wide, sometimes called No. 1, No. 3 and No. 5, respectively.  In most cases tips are not interchangeable among manufacturers and sometimes within a given manufacturer’s models.  When a tip is replaced, the corresponding needle must also be replaced, e.g., an extra fine tip requires an extra fine needle, etc. 

 

Shooting from the Hip – The person who works with a spray gun is experienced in the method of triggering it like a pistol — holding onto the handle and pulling on the trigger located below the spray gun.  This is a totally different feel from the traditional method of triggering an airbrush from the top.  With the recent development of Iwata’s pistol grip airbrushes—triggered identically to a spray gun—the painter can now easily make a transition from spray gun to airbrush for fine Kustom automotive spray.  Check out the new Iwata Kustom Series line, which includes both bottom feed and gravity feed brushes, at your local retail store or online at www.iwata-medea.com.

 

10/10

Tack it Off! – No matter whether you are preparing a metal or a gessoed surface for airbrushing, it must be cleaned of dust and lint created by sanding or cleaning with a cotton cloth. The best way to do this is by wiping with a tack cloth. Designed for cleaning sanded automobile parts, this comes in handy in the artist’s studio. Such cloths are available in some art supply stores and all automotive paint supply stores. They are designed strictly for dust and lint removal. To remove dirt or film on a metal surface, use wax/grease solvents to clean prior to painting.

And Who Invented the Airbrush? – The airbrush was invented by Abner Peeler, a professional inventor, in 1878. Peeler was from Webster City, IA and the first airbrush was originally called a “paint distributor.” It didn’t resemble contemporary airbrushes in any way, shape or form. Rather than being internal mix like most today, it was an external mix, oscillating airbrush in principle and was constructed primarily from wood. Paint was sprayed in a rather crude manner. Peeler held over 100 patents, including those for the screw machine and typewriter. The first airbrush was sold to S. M. Thomas for the then-incredible price of $10. It is documented that one month after the invention of the airbrush, the first painting was completed with it. And it just so happens that it was a self-portrait of Abner Peeler done on an enlarged photograph.

Easy Peel—Removing frisket film from the backing paper can be frustrating. Most airbrush artists attempt peeling with fingernails or by sliding a stencil knife between layers of film/backing paper. Here’s an easy tip to remove frisket film from backing paper: Take a piece of tape, either masking or drafting, and apply it over the edge from the film side. Then simply peel back the tape and the film will lift off like magic.


 
 

 

AirbrushTalk will post new "Airbrush Quick Tips" on AirbrushTalk.com. An announcement of the tips will be e-mailed to subscribers with hyperlinks to pages on which the tips appear. This new e-blast will go out six times a year, alternating with the AirbrushTalk e-newsletter. "Airbrush Quick Tips" are appropriate for beginning, intermediate and advanced airbrush users.

 

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