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"Airbrush Quick Tips Archives"
6/11
Stippling Technique: Large Dot, Small Dot—Stippling
is a term that refers to the spraying of visible dots that are
utilized to create specific effects. Both external and internal
mix airbrushes can spray a stipple. The external mix brush does
it almost innately because of the method in which it sprays the
paint, while the internal mix brush produces a stipple when the
air pressure is lowered to 1 or 2 pounds pressure (psi) and/or
when the air cap is removed. Both work at a low air pressure
for stippling. This incomplete atomization produces unusually
large specks of paint that can be controlled with the airbrush.
The spray is used to
develop various textures, e.g., the rough surface of a metal
casting, rust, and fabric as well as background areas or color
field painting, etc. As opposed to the soft, delicate spray
usually achieved with the airbrush, artists find the ability to
stipple the spray extremely handy.
Airbrush Holders
– It’s quite obvious that you can’t just set the airbrush down
on the work table when it contains paint or the fluid will flow
onto the work surface. It’s necessary to have an airbrush
holder in which to support the airbrush upright. Different
types of holders are available ranging from the simple, flat
metal holders that come with some airbrushes to the more
elaborate double-holders that have regulators and moisture traps
attached. Most types consist of two hooks between which the
airbrush rests.
Myriad Airbrush
Applications – At a recent basic airbrush workshop program
held in Milwaukee (see
www.arttalk.com/workshop/workshop.htm for the next dates), a
survey was taken to see in what applications the students
intended to apply their new airbrush skills. The diversity of
the students was amazing, and following are some of the many
responses: illustration, fine art acrylic on canvas,
fabric/T-shirt painting, wall murals, sign painting, working on
vinyl, makeup for hi-definition TV, kustom auto/motorcycle
painting, wood carvings, furniture decoration, plastic models,
miniature figures, model railroads/dioramas, doll restoration,
glazing ceramics, china restoration, wall stenciling,
photographic retouching, painting on fur/feathers, face masks,
fingernails and preliminary renderings of designs for tattoo
clients.
The airbrush is
constantly being adapted to new and unique applications. Key to
many of these is the ability to apply paint without touching the
surface with a brush.
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4/11
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Spray Straight
– When spraying with the airbrush, point it directly at the work surface;
and move your entire arm when making a spray pass. Beginning artists are
sometimes inclined to move only the wrist when directing spray, and this
prevents them from getting even coverage with the paint. Another problem
can arise when spraying at an angle if the spray lifts the edge of the
stencil/frisket material. Paint will drift underneath the stencil and a
hard edge will not be achieved.
MAC
Valves
– The new Hi-Line Airbrushes from Iwata look very similar to
the older HP Series except for one unique feature: There’s a knob
situated at the bottom front of the airbrush just below the color cup.
This is the micro air control or MAC valve.
A breakthrough in technology from IWATA, this valve allows infinite
control of the air flow at the head assembly of the airbrush. This is
quite different from regulating the air pressure at the compressor. For
one thing, it allows you to adjust the airbrush to spray a coarse
stippling effect by cutting down the air flow. Conversely, by opening the
air flow you will get full atomization without ever having to touch the
regulator. To achieve an extremely fine line for detail work, adjust the
air valve to give maximum control of the paint output. Also, by fully
opening the MAC valve, the airbrush can be quickly cleaned during color
changes. To paint a broad background, fully open the valve to spray a
large amount of paint.
Some airbrushers find it handy to hold onto the MAC while painting, giving
added stability and being able to instantly twist it open or closed at
will. See your retailer and visit
www.iwata-medea.com.
Your Airbrush Trigger Fell Out!--All
airbrushers will experience having the trigger fall from the airbrush when
they remove the needle for cleaning. The needle runs through the trigger
and holds it in place. When the trigger falls out, the spring-loaded
return lever that pushes the trigger back into a shut-off position will
sometimes fall forward and drop into the housing of the airbrush. You
must pull back on the needle holder, relieving the spring pressure against
the return lever, in order to replace the trigger, which seats itself on
the air plunger. You’ll know that it’s in place when you can press down
on the trigger and air comes out. Once it’s back in place, gently slide
in the clean needle and hold it in place by tightening the needle chuck
screw. Refer to the instructional booklet that comes with your airbrush,
usually accompanied with a cutaway rendering of the internal parts. |
02/11
Silence is Golden!
– When it comes to compressors for airbrushing, the quieter they are, the
more appreciated they are by the artist. An artist does not want to be
distracted by a noisy compressor when concentrating on artwork.
Therefore, airbrush compressor manufacturers strive to provide extremely
quiet equipment, a major selling point that is universal in the world of
airbrush. Whether a piston operated or diaphragm compressor, noise level
is controlled in a few different ways, i.e., it may run only on demand or
it may be oil immersed, thus muffling the sound. For those who own a loud
compressor, the noise level can be diminished by placing it far from the
work station.
Same Airbrush, Different
Tips – Both
single and dual action internal and external mix airbrushes are adaptable
to a variety of tip sizes (head assemblies). The size of the tip
determines the fineness and the wideness of the achievable spray. There
are usually three tip sizes available: fine, medium, and wide, sometimes
called No. 1, No. 3 and No. 5, respectively. In most cases tips are not
interchangeable among manufacturers and sometimes within a given
manufacturer’s models. When a tip is replaced, the corresponding needle
must also be replaced, e.g., an extra fine tip requires an extra fine
needle, etc.
Shooting from the Hip
– The person who works with a spray gun is experienced in the method of
triggering it like a pistol — holding onto the handle and pulling on the
trigger located below the spray gun. This is a totally different feel
from the traditional method of triggering an airbrush from the top. With
the recent development of Iwata’s pistol grip airbrushes—triggered
identically to a spray gun—the painter can now easily make a transition
from spray gun to airbrush for fine Kustom automotive spray. Check out
the new Iwata Kustom Series line, which includes both bottom feed and
gravity feed brushes, at your local retail store or online at
www.iwata-medea.com.
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10/10
Tack it Off! – No
matter whether you are preparing a metal or a gessoed surface for
airbrushing, it must be cleaned of dust and lint created by sanding or
cleaning with a cotton cloth. The best way to do this is by wiping with a
tack cloth. Designed for cleaning sanded automobile parts, this comes in
handy in the artist’s studio. Such cloths are available in some art supply
stores and all automotive paint supply stores. They are designed strictly
for dust and lint removal. To remove dirt or film on a metal surface, use
wax/grease solvents to clean prior to painting.
And Who Invented the Airbrush? – The airbrush was invented by Abner
Peeler, a professional inventor, in 1878. Peeler was from Webster City, IA
and the first airbrush was originally called a “paint distributor.” It
didn’t resemble contemporary airbrushes in any way, shape or form. Rather
than being internal mix like most today, it was an external mix,
oscillating airbrush in principle and was constructed primarily from wood.
Paint was sprayed in a rather crude manner. Peeler held over 100 patents,
including those for the screw machine and typewriter. The first airbrush
was sold to S. M. Thomas for the then-incredible price of $10. It is
documented that one month after the invention of the airbrush, the first
painting was completed with it. And it just so happens that it was a
self-portrait of Abner Peeler done on an enlarged photograph.
Easy Peel—Removing frisket film from the backing paper can be
frustrating. Most airbrush artists attempt peeling with fingernails or by
sliding a stencil knife between layers of film/backing paper. Here’s an
easy tip to remove frisket film from backing paper: Take a piece of tape,
either masking or drafting, and apply it over the edge from the film side.
Then simply peel back the tape and the film will lift off like magic.
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AirbrushTalk
will post new "Airbrush Quick Tips"
on
AirbrushTalk.com. An announcement of the tips will be
e-mailed to subscribers with hyperlinks to pages on which the tips appear.
This new e-blast will go out six times a year, alternating with the
AirbrushTalk
e-newsletter. "Airbrush Quick Tips"
are appropriate for beginning, intermediate and advanced airbrush users.
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