"Airbrush Quick Tips"
06/08
Realer Than Real—Abstract
painting was in the spotlight in the 1960’s when along came
sharp focus realism. Paintings in this style were more realistic
than a photograph and usually much larger in size. (This was
before giclee printing was available.) Among photo realists the
airbrush was a preferred tool with which to render. Painters
such as Don Eddy, Audrey Flack and Chuck Close painted subject
matter from gigantic portraits to still lifes to landscapes in
acrylics as well as oils using the airbrush with its innate
ability to spray in a manner that mimics a photograph.
Galleries that championed this art form sprung up on both
coasts. OK Harris, Lewis K. Meisel and the Nancy Hoffman Gallery
still exist in SoHo, New York City, within a few blocks of each
other. On the West Coast, exhibits were held at the Santa
Barbara Museum of Art and at San Jose State, both in CA, as
early as 1971. This sharp focus look in painting was also
utilized by abstract painters such as George Green, Michael
Gallagher and Paul Sarkisian and was called abstract
illusionism. These works are collected by major museums
throughout the country and can be seen on a regular basis in
Manhattan galleries.
Drain Your Tank—Most piston-operated compressors
have a storage tank in which the air is held before it’s
consumed. This tank tends to collect condensation and/or oil, so
it must be drained periodically. At the bottom front of most
storage tanks there is screw valve that is unscrewed while there
is pressure in the tank to allow the moisture and excess oil to
drain. Once the tank is drained, the valve is closed so that it
can again build up pressure in the tank. If moisture is left in
the storage tank too long, rusting can take place; and excess
moisture buildup can lead to moisture in the air line, neither
of which is desirable. Periodic draining will prevent both.
Visit www.silentaire.com to see their extensive line of
compressors/accessories.
Airbrushing in the
Round—Frisket film is used for stenciling on a flat
surface, but when an artist works on a three-dimensional
surface, a different type of material must be used—and
STRETCHmask from Artool fills the bill. Because it
stretches, it’s ideal when airbrushing on curved surfaces such
as motorcycle tanks, sculpture, helmets, ceramics, models, etc.
This flexible and repositionable masking film is clear so that
you can see through it, it cuts easily with a stencil knife or
razor blade and can be reapplied after removal.
STRETCHmask has a medium tack and won’t lift paint when removed;
it is solvent-proof and can be used with either water- or
oil-based paints; it doesn’t wrinkle; paint does not bleed
underneath; and it will not flutter from airbrush spray.
This material is excellent for use by the auto graphics painter,
sign painter, fine artist, ceramicist, hobbyist, modeler,
sculptor and more. STRETCHmask is available in rolls 18”
wide and 10 or 25 yards long.
4/08
A Stiff, Flat Brush
– A handy tool to have in the studio for airbrush maintenance is
a stiff, flat brush, e.g., a No. 4 flat bristle. This
inexpensive paintbrush is well suited for cleaning the airbrush
because it enables you to get into the nooks and crannies of the
color cup or the slot in which the needle gets dirty or the air
cap and tip to eliminate dried paint and clogs. A small round
brush is also handy when using a bottom feed airbrush where
paint may dry in the siphon intake or a side feed airbrush where
paint may need to be removed from the color cup intake.
Note that a paintbrush is a preferred tool for these cleaning
purposes. Some artists make the mistake of using a cotton swab
to clean the color cup, which can deposit cotton fibers during
the cleaning process that may contribute to clogging of the
airbrush
Realer Than Real—Abstract painting was in the
spotlight in the 1960’s when along came sharp focus realism.
Paintings in this style were more realistic than a photograph
and usually much larger in size. (This was before giclee
printing was available.) Among photo realists the airbrush was a
preferred tool with which to render. Painters such as Don Eddy,
Audrey Flack and Chuck Close painted subject matter from
gigantic portraits to still lifes to landscapes in acrylics as
well as oils using the airbrush with its innate ability to spray
in a manner that mimics a photograph.
Galleries that championed this art form sprung up on both
coasts. OK Harris, Lewis K. Meisel and the Nancy Hoffman Gallery
still exist in SoHo, New York City, within a few blocks of each
other. On the West Coast, exhibits were held at the Santa
Barbara Museum of Art and at San Jose State, both in CA, as
early as 1971. This sharp focus look in painting was also
utilized by abstract painters such as George Green, Michael
Gallagher and Paul Sarkisian and was called abstract
illusionism. These works are collected by major museums
throughout the country and can be seen on a regular basis in
Manhattan galleries.
Diner/Restaurant Ware:
A Hot Collectible—Throughout the U.S. from the 1920s to
the 60s, pottery manufacturers produced thousands of different
airbrushed plates, cups, saucers, platters, etc., for diners and
restaurants. This dinnerware would sometimes incorporate the
logos of the establishments or visual images that denoted the
diner or just plain decorations that were easy to produce using
the airbrush and stencils. These potteries included Syracuse
China, Chenango China, and Sterling, among others. This type of
ware is easy to identify because of its extremely distinctive
airbrushed look of designs such as ducks in flight, bounding
deer, Western motifs, leaves/flowers, and silhouettes or
airplanes for such places as the Yankee Clipper Diner or Steer
Head Steakhouse. Keep an eye out for these at your local flea
market and swap sales; and there is always some for sale on
e-Bay.
02/08
Rough Paper = Texture
– There are many textured papers available today. The two used
most often in airbrushing are smooth or hot press paper and
slightly toothed cold press paper. But airbrush artists can work
on any type of paper, from crepe to heavily textured watercolor
paper and from pastel to tracing paper. Keep in mind that
airbrush spray mimics the texture of the paper in the appearance
of the artwork; and the heavier the texture, the more apparent
that texture is in the end product. Therefore, when selecting a
heavily textured paper such as 300 lb. watercolor paper, be sure
you wish to incorporate the resultant appearance as part of the
rendering.
Interesting effects can be achieved on heavily textured paper by
spraying the paint at various angles so that the color hits only
certain parts, e.g., the high parts and not the valleys.
Experiment with different papers and see how you can manipulate
the surface to add to the uniqueness of your artwork.
Inks, Dyes and Liquefied Watercolors – The airbrush will
spray virtually any paint or color that exists, but in many
instances, the paint must be thinned for spraying. In the case
of inks, dyes and liquefied watercolors, they come naturally in
a fluid consistency compatible with spraying. However, the term
liquefied watercolor is a misnomer. These are not natural
watercolors because there is no pigment used; they are actually
dyes similar to ink that are normally fugitive and susceptible
to ultraviolet rays and fading. On the other hand, inks—although
of the same liquid consistency—are available colorfast and
waterproof.
Stippling Technique:
Large Dot, Small Dot—Stippling is a term that refers to the
spraying of visible dots that are utilized to create specific
effects. Both external and internal mix airbrushes can spray a
stipple. The external mix brush does it almost innately because
of the method in which it sprays the paint, while the internal
mix brush produces a stipple when the air pressure is lowered to
1 or 2 pounds pressure (psi) and/or when the air cap is
removed. Both work at a low air pressure for stippling. This
incomplete atomization produces unusually large specks of paint
that can be controlled with the airbrush.
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12/07
Myriad Airbrush
Applications – At a recent basic airbrush workshop program
held in Milwaukee (see www.arttalk.com/workshop/workshop.htm for
the next dates), a survey was taken to see in what applications
the students intended to apply their new airbrush skills. The
diversity of the students was amazing, and following are some of
the many responses: illustration, fine art acrylic on canvas,
fabric/T-shirt painting, wall murals, sign painting, working on
vinyl, makeup for hi-definition TV, kustom auto/motorcycle
painting, wood carvings, furniture decoration, plastic models,
miniature figures, model railroads/dioramas, doll restoration,
glazing ceramics, china restoration, wall stenciling,
photographic retouching, painting on fur/feathers, face masks,
fingernails and preliminary renderings of designs for tattoo
clients.
The airbrush is constantly being adapted to new and unique
applications. Key to many of these is the ability to apply paint
without touching the surface with a brush.
Simplistic and New for Its Time – The American Dadaist
painter Man Ray developed a series of paintings in the early
20th century between 1917 and 1919. These were the first
airbrushed fine art paintings to be shown in a gallery and were
called aerographs. In today’s standards, they would be
considered extremely simplistic, since they consisted of images
developed by airbrushing around found objects such as tools,
paper clips, paper cutouts, etc., that were used simply as
stencils. When airbrushed around, repeated images—both opaque
and transparent—were created that lent themselves to the look of
cubism. It is said that Man Ray was primarily interested in
producing paintings with a high gloss, machine-like finish.
Because the paint was airbrushed onto the surface, there were no
brushstrokes in the artwork—which imparted an industrial
appearance.
Man Ray was introduced to the airbrush while working in an ad
agency in New York City. An excellent collection of his works is
held by the Art Institute of Chicago and, even when viewed
today, their simplicity is astounding.
Sharp
Blade, Easy Cut—One of the most important tools for the
airbrush artist is the knife used for cutting friskets, stencils
and masks. There are three different types that are used in the
trade: swivel knife, stencil knife, and razor blade; and, in
some cases, an artist will use a scalpel. No matter which tool
is used, it must be extremely sharp. Most common is the No. 11
stencil blade, a very elongated, triangular-shaped blade that is
hewed razor sharp. This inexpensive blade can be purchased in
quantity and replaced periodically when dull. With any knife,
once it becomes dull, it’s no longer good for cutting stencils,
etc.
A tip on frisket
cutting: Since you are working directly on the surface of
the artwork, do not bear down too hard on the knife when
cutting. Allow the weight of the knife and the sharpness of the
blade to cut through the frisket film so that the work’s surface
will not be scored. And be sure to use caution when using sharp
blades!
10/07
Spray Straight – When
spraying with the airbrush, point it directly at the work
surface; and move your entire arm when making a spray pass.
Beginning artists are sometimes inclined to move only the wrist
when directing spray, and this prevents them from getting even
coverage with the paint. Another problem can arise when
spraying at an angle if the spray lifts the edge of the stencil/frisket
material. Paint will drift underneath the stencil and a hard
edge will not be achieved.
Airbrush Holders –
It’s quite obvious that you can’t just set the airbrush down on
the work table when it contains paint or the fluid will flow
onto the work surface. It’s necessary to have an airbrush
holder in which to support the airbrush upright. Different
types of holders are available ranging from the simple, flat
metal holders that come with some airbrushes to the more
elaborate double-holders that have regulators and moisture traps
attached. Most types consist of two hooks between which the
airbrush rests.
Your Airbrush Trigger
Fell Out!--All airbrushers will experience having the
trigger fall from the airbrush when they remove the needle for
cleaning. The needle runs through the trigger and holds it in
place. When the trigger falls out, the spring-loaded return
lever that pushes the trigger back into a shut-off position will
sometimes fall forward and drop into the housing of the
airbrush. You must pull back on the needle holder, relieving
the spring pressure against the return lever, in order to
replace the trigger, which seats itself on the air plunger.
You’ll know that it’s in place when you can press down on the
trigger and air comes out. Once it’s back in place, gently
slide in the clean needle and hold it in place by tightening the
needle chuck screw. Refer to the instructional booklet that
comes with your airbrush, usually accompanied with a cutaway
rendering of the internal parts.
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